This is the first post of my Kosi river trip. I toured the entire length of Kosi river in India under my Anaadi River Project. Let me introduce you one of the oldest rivers of the Indian subcontinent.
Kosi River – An Introduction
Kosi river is quite ancient you can say older than the Himalayas. She takes birth on the higher altitude of the Himalayas in Nepal and then rolls through the lower hills of Nepal before entering India in Bhimnagar.
From Bhimnagar she flows through Supaul and Saharsa district eventually meeting Ganga near Kursela in Bhagalpur district.
She is called Sapta Kosi in Nepal due to seven tributaries she has in Nepal. Kosi is titled as sorrow of Bihar, dayan (witch) and sometimes mother by the people of Bihar.
People living along the bank of Kosi river do not stop cursing her as soon as heavy monsoon begins making her swell her banks.
Whatever people name her, but for me, Kosi is very very special.
Not because I am from Bihar and she flows in Bihar but her history impresses me.
She is quite different from rest of the rivers. She brings water from the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha) and 6 other highest peaks of the Himalaya let their water in Kosi river.
The section of Himalaya from which she flows is young when compared with Satpura, Vindhya and Deccan mountain ranges. As a matter of this fact, the land surface is mainly composed of loose soil.
When it rains in this section a tremendous amount of silt flows into the Kosi river. As time passes continuously depositing silt raises the floor of the river. Soon a situation arrives when river water spill over the embankments and wreaks havoc on both sides.
As per the records nearly 5 million people are forced to live their lives in dangerous, unhygienic and penurious situations.
I wished to tour all along the course of Kosi river in Bihar and try to understand the present situation.
And I must say my bike expedition along the Kosi river was very fruitful. I not only got to witness the beauty of rural Bihar but also got to understand the problems faced by the population.
Let’s begin the story. I will talk about the Kosi in and between the post.
I was in Bihar in November 2017. Though it was mid-winter season, cold was yet to lay her hands over Bihar. I was praying that fog didn’t appear for a week. If it starts I would have less than 4, 5 hours of proper daylight.
The trip was going to be on a motorcycle for which I took the assistance of Ride Captain Bike Rental Service in Patna. Their office is in Kankarbagh, Patna.
They gave me a nice deal. Owner is co-operative and soft talking. I chose Bajaj Avenger over Apache RTR 160 and few other options. Bike was recently serviced and looked fine except the missing RVMs. Packed and loaded I left Patna around 12:30 PM.
Here is the day-wise route
Day 1: Patna to Nirmali (Madhubani)
Day 2: Nirmali -> Bhimnagar -> Supaul -> Saharsa
Day 3: Saharsa -> Kursela -> Begusarai
Day 4: Begusarai -> Nalanda -> Patna
Patna to Nirmali via Muzaffarpur, Madhubani and Darbhanga
In four days I rode through 12 districts of Bihar. And to my surprise roads were extremely fantastic. The four-lane road from Patna to Bhimnagar is mind-blowing.
With a little bit of amplification, I would say, I couldn’t notice a single pothole. The change may be due to huge investment by government in Border Roads. I was very comfortably cruising at 80-100 kmph.
Landscape was amazing on the route. River and small streams can be spotted throughout the route.
As I said I left Patna in mid-afternoon and passed Muzaffarpur, Darbhanga, Madhubani before calling off for the day in Nirmali.
Overnight halt in Nirmali town
It was already dark when I reached Nirmali and I decided not to continue ahead majorly due to unknown roads and chances of fog. Also, the next town with chances of having lodge was around 70 Km from here.
Talking of Nirmali, it seemed an old town. I could see several old Jain styled architectures painted in white. Not sure about the history of these but would later on read on this.
Got into the best lodge of Nirmali – Munna Hotel for Rs. 450.
I like cheap lodges as they are quite happening during the night.
Today the protagonist was my neighbour, a Bengali movie actress.
She took entire lodge on her head for her wish to have tea around midnight. Sadly her wish could not come true as towns like Nirmali fall asleep by 9 PM. On top that she received scolding from the hotel in charge.
I found a Vegetarian Rajasthani Dhaba ‘Aastha Marwadi Hotel’ opposite Bank of India and had tasty and healthy on pocket dinner. Returned to the lodge and took off for the day.
If you ever are on this route and wants to take halt in Nirmali, I would suggest staying in Munna house. The owner has a restaurant with the same name ‘Munna Hotel’ very close to Nirmali Railway Station. There isn’t much option with respect to accommodation here.